IOWA CITY CAR COMPONENT SPEAKER INSTALLATION

Car Component Speaker Installation Service near Iowa City IA:

At Mobile Auto Truck Repair Iowa City, we’ve never settled for ho-hum car sound and speakers firing at your knees leave a lot to be desired. For the best possible sound in your car, we recommend a component speaker system. Separate tweeters and woofers will mean a little more work on installation day, but years of enjoyment thanks to the three big audio advantages of component speakers.

Driving responsibly on the road requires that you avoid distractions as much as possible. For example, it’s a good idea to turn off your mobile phone, or put it in silent mode, so that you don’t get distracted by text messages (in fact, it’s illegal to use a hand-held mobile phone while driving on roads).

Unfortunately, automakers often install low-quality speakers in their cars (in order to save costs) that don’t sound great at low volumes. One solution is to invest in a quality component speaker system that increases the audio quality.

What are component car speakers?

Normal coaxial speakers, whether factory-installed or aftermarket, combine the woofer and tweeter into one speaker. It’s a convenient way to get decent sound from a single speaker opening, but the design of the woofer and tweeter are both compromised in this arrangement.

Component speakers, on the other hand, separate the two drivers and introduce a crossover to define the frequency range that each driver should operate at. Tweeters handle the subtle high range and, since higher frequencies are more directional than lower, they are mounted close to ear level. Woofers are usually mounted in your vehicle’s factory locations, most likely in the doors. Free from any physical interference from the tweeters, the more resonant low frequencies will create a solid foundation for the detailed highs.

Benefits of component speaker

1. Tonal clarity

The tweeters and woofers, in a component speaker system, are free to work at an enhanced level. More specifically, they will perform at a higher level for the frequencies assigned to them. An external crossover ensures that frequencies above a fixed point go to the tweeters, and those below go to the woofers. This prevents the different drivers from stretching to play frequencies that they can’t handle, increasing the definition of individual sounds and boosting the overall clarity.

2. Soundstage

Soundstage is the perceived wideness and depth that the speakers project. Instead of the music sounding like it’s coming from inside or close to your head, a well-set-up component speaker system will sound more spacious. A perfect example to illustrate this is the difference between a standalone speaker and a complete home theatre setup. When you compare the sound quality in a room, excellent Dolby Atmos soundbars will absolutely outshine a lone loudspeaker in terms of soundstage.

3. Sound imaging

Sound imaging refers to the perceived spatial locations of the sound sources in a sound recording, both laterally and in depth. It’s most readily appreciated in classical recordings, where various instruments are seated in different locations. By positioning the various parts of a component speaker system (tweeters, woofers and crossover) strategically, within your car, you can improve the sound imaging and create a three-dimensional reproduction of the music.

4. Customizability

Another advantage of component speaker systems over their coaxial counterparts is their higher level of customizability. For example, component speakers have split drivers, which means that you can configure them differently through an equalizer.

5. Modular system

A complete component speaker system includes tweeters and woofers among other components. The modular nature of this setup means that you can add additional, or upgrade specific, components incrementally and cost-effectively.

Component speakers installation

Car Component Speaker Installation Service near Iowa City IA: Component speaker systems use separate woofers, tweeters, and crossovers to send out detailed, dynamic sound. The crossovers send the low frequencies to the woofers and the highs to the tweeters, freeing up each driver to play with incredible clarity. Component speakers offer the listener greater imaging possibilities than full-range speakers via increased flexibility in placement, aim, and control. Getting the great sound that components have to offer does come with a price. Component speaker installations generally require more time and effort than coaxial speaker installations. Depending on your vehicle and where you choose to place your components, they may require drilling or cutting. But don’t be intimidated; this installation guide can help even first-time installers find their way through the process.

What this guide provides

This installation guide will help you decide on the best location for your new components, as well as help you prepare for and complete the installation.

Woofer placement

The dash, doors, and kick panels serve as the most common homes for woofers. In many cases, you’ll be able to mount the woofers in the factory speaker locations with little to no adjustments to the easy fit option. At most, you’ll have to drill extra screw holes, cut a small area of metal or pressboard, or file the door panel. Modifying fit speakers requires a greater degree of cutting and drilling. Before you begin, you must be sure that modifications will not interfere with any car mechanisms, and that the speakers will fit securely. Though you can relocate any speaker, whether it be “easy” or “modify” fit, be aware that the process can be complicated and time-consuming, especially for first-time installers.

Tweeter placement

Many people choose to install their tweeters on the doors, the sail or kick panels, or the dash. Tweeter installations require some panel modifications, as very few vehicles come with factory tweeter mounts. The degree of modification depends on the mounting method. Just as it sounds, surface-mounting places the tweeter on top of a surface, with little to no modifications necessary. Of course, this method will leave you with a more noticeable installation. A flush-mount, on the other hand, gives a smooth, customized look. It requires cutting a hole into the door panel for the tweeter so it sits level with the interior panel. Whichever method you choose, most manufacturers recommend that you mount your tweeters within 12 of the woofers. Otherwise, the high and low frequencies may reach your ears at different times, resulting in a sonic wave cancellation or phase interference.

Crossover placement

Though crossovers usually require little in the way of car adaptation, finding the right place to house them can be tricky. The crossovers need to be kept in a place where they won’t interfere with any of the car’s moving parts, and where they won’t get wet or vibrate. While some people choose to permanently mount them under the seats or on display, it’s often just as easy to find a convenient spot for them behind the mounting panel near the speakers. The closer the crossover is to the speakers, the better, as the proximity will cut down on noise. The doors and behind the kick panels serve as two good options for housing crossovers.

When to use new wiring

If you’re powering your new speakers with a factory or aftermarket stereo, the factory speaker wire already installed in your vehicle should work just fine. However, if you plan to install an external amplifier that’s rated at 50 watts RMS or more per channel, then we recommend you run new speaker wire. 14- to 16-gauge wire should do the trick when running new speaker wire.

Add-ons

The following installation instructions will also apply if you are adding a set of speakers (midranges, tweeters) to your current aftermarket system.

Remember, as with any electronic installation, disconnect the negative cable on your battery before doing anything else. Also, make sure you have the necessary tools on hand (see above for details).

Door mounting woofers

Most car manufacturers build the factory woofers into the door and, often, your new woofer will easily fit into that factory speaker hole. You may still have to dismantle part of your door to install it, however. Here’s how:

Removing the grille

With a flathead screwdriver, gently pry off the grille of the existing speaker. Car manufacturers usually create a notch in the grille for this very purpose. Grilles secured to the door or attached by friction fittings will require unscrewing or more aggressive prying.

Removing the door panel

You may need to remove the door panel to access the factory speaker, or to custom install your speakers. In this case, start by removing the window crank (if you have one). A screw at the pivot secures some cranks, but most come anchored by a spring clip. You can use a window-crank removal tool (available from Crutchfield) or a flathead screwdriver to remove this clip. To remove, depress the door panel until you can see behind the crank, turn the lever until you see the prongs of the clip, and gently push the crank off with the screwdriver. The clip will pop off, so be careful.

Remove armrest and rest of panel

Next, you’ll have to remove the armrest by unscrewing a few phillips-head screws and some trim fittings around the handle. Once the armrest is unattached, you can remove the door panel. For most cars, you’ll find the panel fastened by a few screws and friction fittings. With the screws removed, begin prying off the door panel at the bottom corner. Use a panel tool (available from Crutchfield) or, if you don’t have one on hand, two putty knives can also do the trick. Once you loosen the bottom and sides, the panel should hang from some trim at the window well. Simply lift up on the trim, and the panel should come free.

Remove the old speaker

Carefully lift out the old speaker and detach it from the wiring harness. Some manufacturers use a sealant foam when mounting the original speakers, so you may need to cut through that with a utility knife. Set the factory wiring harness aside. You’ll need to wire the woofer to the crossover before routing it to the head unit. See Page 5 for more wiring instructions.

Make adjustments accordingly

Usually, you’ll be able to fit the new speaker into the hole with no difficulty, but sometimes the hole can be too narrow or shallow to accommodate it. In this case, you may have to file or trim part of your door or speaker opening, or anchor your speaker basket to the mounting location.

Surface-mounting

You should surface-mount your tweeters if you want to minimize labor time and modifications, or if you don’t have the depth to flush-mount. Surface-mounting may also offer greater angle range than flush-mounting. With a surface-mount, a cup secured to a surface with a screw holds the tweeter in place. You will need to drill a small hole in the panel to secure the mounting cup and run the speaker leads to the tweeter (see previous page for instructions on removing the door panel).

Flush-mounting

The advantage of a flush-mount lies in its sleek, factory-look, since the tweeter does not protrude from the panel. Many manufacturers also include angle-mounts that allow you to aim the tweeters slightly, even when they’re mounted within the panel. When flush- or angle-mounting your tweeters, you’ll need to drill or cut a hole in the panel to accommodate the entire tweeter.

Installing flush-mount tweeters

First, trace the tweeter cup on the panel or dash. Use a drill with a serrated circular blade to cut the hole, and then trim it with a sharp knife. Mount the tweeter (your tweeter will come with specific instructions for this step).

Protecting the crossover

Make sure you house the crossover in a dry place, such as in a hollow space behind the plastic door panel. If you must mount it on the door metal, wrap the crossover in a plastic bag and tape the openings to keep it safe from moisture.

The crossover should be secure against vibration. Merely placing the crossover in the door or kick panel leaves it likely to be tossed around. Also, as with the speaker installation, you’ll want to make sure the crossover does not interfere with any moving parts. Put the crossovers through the same rigorous tests as you did the speakers, specifically with respect to window and door mobility.

Wire networks

Since you’ll most likely install the components in new, unwired locations, you’ll have to spend some extra time wiring them. Component speakers also come with external crossovers, so the wires running from the receiver must first be routed to the crossover, and then to the individual woofers and tweeters. If connecting an amplifier as well, the amp should be wired between the receiver and the crossover.

Wiring through existing door boot

Once you’ve found the best location for your component system, you’ll need to hook it up. Fortunately, most cars sport a rubber boot that connects between the door and the car body. Using this boot as a conduit, run your speaker wires off the door, underneath the kick panels, and to your receiver or external amplifier. You can easily do this by taping the wire to a straightened coat hanger and fishing everything through the interior panels.

Test-driving your system

At this point, you’ll want to test your system before fully reassembling your doors. Loosely attach the door panel to the door, barring the window crank. If you chose to bottom-mount your speakers, mount your speakers in the door before hanging the panel. Holding the speaker in its new hole, mark the screw holes; then remove the speaker, and drill accordingly.

Pull the wires through the door and attach them to the speaker. As long as you’re consistent, it does not matter which terminal you use as positive and negative. Next, hang the speaker in the door. You may need to use “speed” clips (often provided) to give the speaker screws extra support. With all speakers in place, you can listen to your stereo to make sure it works to your liking. Once you’re satisfied, finish reattaching your door panel.

Cutting a wire hole

If your car doesn’t have a rubber boot, you’ll have to drill a 5/8″ hole to string the wiring through. Before drilling, make sure the hole will have access to the desired speaker location, as structural steel sometimes blocks the edge of the door. Cover any sharp edges of the hole with a rubber grommet, several layers of electrical tape, or some flexible tubing. Make sure the door will stay open all the way, and that the wire will not get pinched by the hinges or door jamb. Once you finish drilling and cutting, vacuum all metal debris before finally installing the speakers to prevent rattling or shorts.

Custom woofer installation

Nothing competes with placing your speakers in the location that you determine emits the best possible sound. You may even end up locating your woofers in locations that don’t already have speaker holes. In that case, you need to make some. Here’s what you need to know.

For more information on this, check out the Mobile Auto Truck Repair Iowa City.